28 May 2012 – Day 2, Part I.
There is room here—scope and space between the clouded ceiling and the outstretching of fields. The land in this part of the country is a mosaic of brown and green. The trees here either short and shapely or tall and lithe—all tinged a deep, full green. I have the urge to simply inhale—even sitting on a coach behind moving glass—knowing there is an abundance to take in across the low rolling land.
Earlier, coming directly out of Ankara on the start of our bus journey, we were amidst the mountains. The towns we passed were set at the bases of these angular, steep hills, the ascending ridges—covered in a multitude of trees and shrubs and rocks—looming over them. This is certainly a breathtaking place.
It is work to pull out the descriptions as I sit cross-legged in my bus seat. It is a challenge (just as it was in India) to capture the essence of a place so culturally different from my own. It is refreshing to be out of my box though. No journey without a little fear—a dose of uncertainty—is worth having. Because as I’ve found, once those uncertainties are overcome, the satisfaction that fills you and expands in your chest afterwards is a feeling of freedom that cannot be summoned from anywhere else.
…later…
My favorite sights thus far are the small silhouettes of people walking across the lush fields. I like to wonder where they are going—where they have come from. My imaginative curiosity takes hold as I begin trying to piece together an image of their lifestyle. What does their home look like? What do they wake up to every morning? What do they cook for dinner? What do they pray for and what do they work for?
Then I think to myself, what makes a person?
28 May 2012 – Day 2, Part II.
We pass through a little town now and suddenly I am having flashbacks of Dharamsala. The tiny shops that line the streets are very reminiscent to the ones in the little town I lived near in India. And, amazingly enough, I smile to myself because it feels like home—or at least a certain brand of home.
In spite of this though, this particular town is still vastly different from Dharamsala. The streets are dirty here, but free of rubbish. The people are smiling and the air seems cleaner. And as we drive out, I see my first glimpse of the ‘fairy chimneys’ to our right—the large, unevenly cylindrical structures made of stone, jutting out of the small hills. They are surreal.
Through the window now, the land opens up again into equal parts grass and greenery, equal parts dirt and clay. Plateaus are suspended upon the horizon in the distance—low, flat tables of earthy brown. No wonder the people smile here…
The more I let my mind wander and explore the spaces and textures of this country, the more I feel the desire to do this—to travel and write and just…see. I could do this, right? I have scoffed at myself for wanting to become a ‘travel writer’ but maybe it’s not such an undesirable profession after all. Maybe it’s the relaxation talking…
28 May 2012 – Day 2, Part III.
We have arrived to Goreme! After five hours on a bus, my senses are alive and my mind feels at peace. I am literally in heaven, sitting shaded at an outdoor café, watching people stroll past in the bright streets. I am drinking the traditional Turkish tea. This place is magic—that is the only way to describe it.
At one point when our mini-bus was driving us into the Cappadocia area, the road spiraled down and we found ourselves coming into a canyon of the ‘fairy chimneys.’ The area resembled an ant colony; the worn and smoothed stone formations are unlike anything I’ve ever seen.
…later…
My life just became “immeasurably awesome” (in the words of Katie). I am sitting on a rock wall beside a cemetery, underneath a fig tree in the dead center of Turkey. In front of me are the jutting cones of rock that are the ‘fair chimneys.’ To my left, down the stone road we have been following, is an enormous open-faced plateau, displaying layers and layers of pinks and browns in an incredible horizontal pattern down the front. The sun is out and a warm breeze is tugging at my hair as I write. There are birds chirping in the distance. I feel restless though; the road and the desire to explore are calling…
…still later…
Katie and I have taken to exploring a hill that is littered with ‘fairy chimneys.’ Higher up, there is a rock face that resembles a building, with carved out windows and doorways. It attaches itself to a more organic rock formation that appears as melted candlewax. Both shapes are the same smooth texture and natural, washed-away color of earth. The paths we climb are sandy dirt, the dust creeping into our open sandals and coating our gripping feet. The landscape looks like something Salvador Dali created.
When we reach the top of the hill where the ‘stone building’ sits, we find that it truly is—or once was—a building. A carved out, arched doorway leads into a dim room. The ceiling is fairly low but completely flat; there are pillars and arches at the back, and it is clear that a fire once burned here because of the soot-covered ceiling and walls. It is an odd sensation to step foot inside—almost as though we are intruding. There is a contradiction at play: we are amidst the clear presence of people, but met with their undeniable absence as well. It is slightly haunting, but oh so intriguing.
28 May 2012 – Day 2, Part IV.
Katie and I have returned from our hike and are sitting on red-cushioned wicker chairs, at a small café in the downtown area of Goreme. The Call to Prayer sounds at the mosque next door, the loud static sounds catching us by surprise. Like a practiced routine, the men at the neighboring cafes rise and walk mechanically towards the building. And almost on cue, the sky opens slightly and tiny droplets begin to fall onto our arms and the glass table before us. The singing over the loudspeakers—a wavering, whining sound that lifts over the trees—continues as the men file in.
As the song ends and the streets are emptied once more, the rain begins to come in waves. Katie and I are forced to move to another table under the awning as the Turkish waiters dash about outside snatching the red cushions. The wind has picked up; Goreme has shifted faces.
I am sitting here now, still listening to the rainfall on the canvas above and drinking my second cup of Turkish tea. I loathe talking negatively about people. Katie and I were engaged in conversation about a mutual acquaintance just as the Call to Prayer began. Fortunately it both interrupted and ultimately ended the discussion.
I believe that people are fundamentally good. You cannot change this conviction for me. Too often, we let the flaws in a person’s character distort our image of them far too easily. It is one of man’s worst habits—and we all do it. It is places like this though—where peace is tangible and smiles are easy—that are meant to remind us. The challenge is to find this tranquility elsewhere though, or to at least grasp it and cling to it when none can be found. I wish you could change a person’s mind…
…much later…
Listening to the Call to Prayer while sitting up in bed. There is something quite restful about the voice coming in over the loudspeaker. It feels as though I am a part of something bigger than me—that I am really a part of it and not just an outsider observing. The notion is calming.
29 May 2012 – Day 3, Part I.
My body is sore from the long travels and the hiking in sandals yesterday, but I lie here in my yellow bed feeling very content nonetheless. Birds are engaged in a full-fledged chorus outside the window and I’m staring up in the high, arched ceiling of stone that makes up our room. I awoke to sounds of a rooster calling and was once again reminded where I am.
I wish for this. I wish always for the ability to escape the anxiety and tribulations of the modern, technologically dependent world when necessary and find tranquility again. I must never lose this sense of connection with the world.
29 May 2012 – Day 3, Part II.
This does not feel like real life. This cannot be reality. Katie and I are sitting on the faded cushions of a couch outside, beneath a canvas awning that covers the patio of a small ranch house. Like many of the buildings in Goreme, the house is carved out of the natural stone of the region. Before us is small, flat corral where horses trot about freely. We have just finished our hour-long trail ride, followed by a glass of tea. Turkish music plays in the background as the dark-skinned men who run the farm are shouting at one another in their mother tongue, examining a dapple-grey mare’s back hoof. The sun is out and this sense of contentment refuses to be shed. I am absolutely in love.
After a bit, the tall thin man who picked us up from the hotel that morning comes over and sits with us. He offers us another glass of tea—which we accept—and then he begins talking. He tells us about himself in his thick Turkish accent. His hair is long and dense, ending at just above his shoulders and covered with a black leather hat. His skin is dark and weathered from the sun. He informs us that he owns the small ranch, and then he tells us that he has caught the majority of his horses himself—riding into the mountains and bringing back one or two from the wild herds that roam the land. He explains how horses connect with people—how they fall in love with one person, and when that person dies or is sick, the horse will cry.
I cannot understand his every word due to his rich accent, but I listen to him. I can hear his passion in his words and I can see the abundance of pride he has for his animals as he gazes out across the corral. He points out a goose that emerges suddenly in the dusty horse arena, followed closely by at least ten goslings that meander about in uneven paths behind their mother. Later, he hands us two month-old kittens that appear out from under a sofa in an open room off the side of the house. He tells us we should come back later to watch him train horses and we smile because we know we will.
Earlier, as we rode through the vivid landscape that we had only begun to explore yesterday, my constantly referenced sense of peace fully unfurled itself. My combustible senses were on fire. After some bedtime research last night, Katie and I discovered that the unique rock formations and the ‘fairy chimneys’ themselves were all naturally formed. With this knowledge tucked in my pocket, I rode behind our trail guide feeling an incredible harmony with the beautiful land. The experience was organic. My muscles shifted with the movement of the horse and with every breath, I inhaled the sweet fragrant air that emanated from the surrounding foliage.
We rode our horses—our guide, Katie, and myself—on narrow pathways that wove amongst the hills around the towering chimneys. The uniquely sculptured faces of the hills made for a quiet and tranquil ride. For the majority of our journey, there was not a soul in sight aside from the three of us. Our guide stopped only twice, allowing us to take in the breathtaking scenery from specific viewpoints. One was at the top of the hill, before our descent into the Rose Valley. We peered out over the open terrain, surveying more fully the layered plateau that Katie and I had seen from a distance the day before. The clusters of the pointed rock tufts made the chimneys look like a pack of pencils, all standing at attention, points reaching into the blue.
At one point, once we had maneuvered the horses down a steep hill and reached a flat road through the canyon, I sat back and inhaled. I could not help but feel grateful that we had foregone the hot air balloon ride over the valley and opted for the less expensive activity of our trail ride. I felt then as though I was a part of the landscape—that we were partaking in something that was in sync with the region’s history and culture. I knew then, as I lifted my chin to the wind, that Goreme and the Cappadocia area would be forever ingrained in my soul. I had fallen in love—a deep, always-home type of adoration that I will forever carry with me.
As I sit here on the terrace of the hotel, sheltered from the sun by a large wooden umbrella, the Call to Prayer sounds again and my heart sighs. I do not want to leave this place. Both the scenery here and the people themselves are nurturing to the soul. I could listen to the moans of this Muslim song, staring out over the town for days. This, my friends, is happiness. I wish I could fold up this beauty—these sensations—and post them to my loved ones. Everyone deserves to feel this. Everyone should see that life can be like this.
29 May 2012 – Day 3, Part III.
We have just been deemed “tea sugar.” We are back at the ranch, after an early afternoon spent writing (me) and napping (Katie), followed by a lovely lunch and afternoon climb about the chimneys (i.e. big people’s playground). We were sipping tea though, watching the horses and shooting the shit with an Australian and a Canadian, when the thunder spoke and the rain swept in. The owner, our thin, hat-wearing Turkish friend, teased us—insinuating that we were delicate as we dashed about grabbing our bags to take cover from the drops. We laughed.
Katie and I spent the better portion of our late afternoon there, watching the various farm animals in action and observing the influx of visitors that came and went as the time passed. The place was a breeding ground for new faces and friendly smiles, and we were eating it up.
Earlier, as the two of us walked along a road passing through bits of sparse woodlands, we chanced upon a couple walking towards us. I noticed from a distance that the man was wearing a ‘Virginia is for Lovers’ T-shirt. As we neared them, I asked him if he was from Virginia. So as it turns out, the chap was from New Castle, which is literally an hour from where I grew up. As if that wasn’t enough, he also attended Virginia Tech (please insert several exclamation points here). It is a small damn world.
Tomorrow we leave Goreme, travelling all day until we reach Canakkale at a ripe 12:30 in the morning (Thursday morning, to be precise). Katie and I are both positively dejected at the thought of leaving this incredible place. We met some wonderful people today and had a wonderful goodbye dinner on a terrace overlooking the small town and up into the hills. Once the sun set, the mosque across the road was lit with an emerald spotlight. We heard our final Call to Prayer and reveled in the comfort of it over our glasses of wine. Goreme has been kind to us, but tomorrow we move on in search of other adventures.
Fortunately, I am ending my time here in style—with a full-fledged, ninety minute hamam (or Turkish bath, complete with scrub down, peel, massage, and sauna). After bruising a rather inconvenient part of my body riding a horse for the first time in over five years, I will be ready for a rub down before hopping on a bus for five hours.
Farewell, Goreme. You will be in my heart forever. Bring on the rest of the Odyssey.











